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Bulgarian rose, symbol of our mastery of natural

12 February 2021   |   Reading time: 3 minutes   |   Share:

SILAB ensures the rigorous selection of Bulgarian roses as well as their traceability in order to secure the sourcing of flowers and prevent the risk of falsification. SILAB has guaranteed the authentication of the plant by genetic, phytochemical and botanical studies.

Bulgarian rose, symbol of our mastery of natural

3 key words: selection, traceability and authentication

Being a global leader in the engineering of natural cosmetic actives comes with major responsibilities, those of guaranteeing their quality, safety and efficacy. SILAB is committed to these three items starting with the onset of the development of its active ingredients by assuring the rigorousness of the selection, traceability and authentication of natural raw materials. This strategy of mastering natural is applicable to all plants and microorganisms used by SILAB, but is all the more important when the company optimizes the value of Bulgarian rose (Rosa damascena Mill.), one of the most emblematic roses among the plethora of existing varieties.

Bulgarian rose flowers selected by SILAB come from the region of Kazanlak, located in the famous Rose Valley in Bulgaria. These rose bushes native to the Middle East were introduced in Bulgaria in the 17th century. The country is currently one of the leading producers of the essential oil of Bulgarian rose, globally renowned in perfumery for its delicate fragrance. SILAB has created a sustainable relationship with Bulgarian producers in the Rose Valley in order to procure a supply of this natural raw material that is traceable to the plot of land and with a calibrated quality. The temperate climate of the region provides the rainfall required for the successful development of the rose bushes. During the harvest period in May and June, the elevated humidity furnishes optimal conditions for slow and uniform flowering.

The famous Rose Valley in Bulgaria

Over the course of centuries, Rose Valley pickers have acquired traditional know-how for growing delicate Bulgarian roses. SILAB decided to use this expertise to guarantee a controlled and reproducible harvest.

In order to ensure the freshness and quality of the flowers, they are picked by hand and harvest begins well before dawn when the petals are still covered in dew. Once picked, the flowers are immediately dried at low temperature with the aim of preserving their active compounds. Harvest lasts from 20 to 30 days, during which time there is a traditional festival to celebrate the folklore around this resource. Once this festive period is over, the rose gardens return to their peaceful surroundings.

Traditional festival

Roses are the flowers most widely grown in the world and the extensive diversity of species of the Rosa genus renders the identification of the Bulgarian rose complicated. In SILAB’s strategy of mastering natural, the company has developed an innovative process in order to secure the authentication of this natural raw material. SILAB has therefore determined the genetic fingerprint of the Bulgarian rose by comparing samples of this species to a number of other rose species from reference collections.

In addition, SILAB’s experts in natural raw materials have developed a unique approach in partnership with a European Pharmacopoeia expert in order to characterize the organoleptic, botanical and phytochemical markers of the Bulgarian rose.

All the data resulting from these studies have led to the creation of a complete “identity card” used by SILAB to authenticate batches of Bulgarian roses before developing WELLAGYL®, the benchmark active ingredient for aging well.

Microscope observations of botanical markers characterized in <i>Rosa damascena</i> (Mill.)

Microscope observations of botanical markers characterized in Rosa damascena (Mill.)

Mastering natural, a winning strategy to enhance radiance

The company’s sourcing strategy is used to maximize the efficacy of WELLAGYL®, a natural active ingredient developed from Bulgarian roses and dedicated to the beauty of mature skin.

The rigorous selection of Bulgarian rose flowers, their traceable supply chain in the famous Rose Valley and the authentication of each new batch received on site by SILAB guarantee that the properties of this flower remain secure and of optimum value.

Pauline Minet

Innovation Management Project Leader
Nature is beautiful and fascinating, my job at SILAB allows me to learn about it every day. This interest in biology and the skills I acquired during my master's degree in Phytochemistry support me in the development of innovative projects around natural raw materials of interest.