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Everything to know about acne

Long considered as an issue restricted to teenagers, at the present time acne concerns more than 40% of adult women. Beyond its direct effects on the skin, this pathology has profound psychosocial effects. It is now the most widespread reason for consulting a dermatologist with an important increase heading into the autumn, a direct consequence of the rebound effect. Even though sunlight attenuates imperfections, they in fact reappear in greater number once there is no more summertime exposure to the sun.

How is acne manifested?

Acne is a chronic inflammatory skin pathology characterized by the appearance of lesions, most often on the face and to a lesser extent on the back, torso and scalp. Hormonal changes, stress and environmental factors favor the development of lesions by altering the functioning of the pilosebaceous follicle. They take the form of retentional or inflammatory lesions. Their appearance is the consequence of four major biological modifications.

Two early events are responsible for retentional lesions: hyperseborrhea and hyperkeratinization. In cases of acne, the functioning of sebaceous glands, “factories” producing sebum, is altered causing an over-production of sebum and a modification of its composition.

In addition, hyperkeratinization thickens the skin around pores, due to the excessive proliferation of keratinocytes that line the excretory canal. Cells accumulate to the point of totally obstructing the pore, thereby preventing the evacuation of sebum to the surface. Retention of sebum and the resulting dilation of the canal cause the formation of the comedo.
Retentional lesions are therefore present in the form of open or closed comedos. Open comedos are also known as blackheads because of the brown color of sebum lipids that become oxidized in contact with the air. Closed comedos or microcysts give the skin a granular appearance.

Comedos may lead to the appearance of inflammatory acne lesions. It is in fact a microenvironment depleted in oxygen and enriched in sebum that is conducive to the growth of microorganisms involved in the development of acne: Cutibacterium acnes.
Its excessive proliferation exacerbates the production of sebum and amplifies hyperkeratinization. In addition, it stimulates the production of inflammatory mediators by several cell types of the pilosebaceous unit (keratinocytes, sebocytes, immune cells).
Four types of lesions can develop: papules and pustules that can progress to nodules or cysts that are deeper, more painful and related to a more severe inflammatory stage.

Differents types acne

In severe forms of acne, some of these lesions result in the appearance of a large number of unsightly marks. There may also be scars in individuals who have scratched or otherwise handled comedos and other acne lesions.

Strategies to combat acne and its consequences

Keratolytic products act on hyperkeratinization and antibiotics target the microbiota. When used conjointly, these treatments successfully manage certain biological alterations characterizing acne.
These complex beauty routines, however, tend to interfere with the equilibrium of the skin, that may become dry, irritated and sensitive. Furthermore, imperfections do not disappear immediately; several weeks are required before observing an improvement. A study has shown that fewer than 50% of patients correctly follow their treatment and that women afflicted by this pathology desire natural anti-acne products that they consider to be more effective.

In light of the growing demand for more overall and more natural solutions by consumers with this pathology, SILAB proposes ACNESIUM®.

ACNESIUM® targets the four biological anomalies characteristic of acne in an unprecedented way for proven efficacy as of 30 days of treatment. Its rapid and transversal action facilitates the beauty routines of adult women with acne lesions. ACNESIUM® re-establishes the quality and appearance of acneic skin, thereby restoring lost self-perception and improving the quality of life of patients.

After acne disappears, equally severe and stigmatizing marks may persist. Exfoliation is a strategy of choice to attenuate these marks. There are currently several types of exfoliation. Mechanical scrubbing with fine grains exfoliates the skin’s surface by friction. Chemical scrubbing attacks the junctions between dead cells on the surface of the skin. Although these acids efficiently eliminate the superficial layer of the skin, they also trigger cutaneous irritation reactions.
Acneic skin is reactive and sensitive and so requires gentle scrubbing. Whether these approaches are mechanical or chemical, they are too aggressive for acneic skin already rendered fragile by these lesions. In this context, SILAB has developed EXFOLACTIVE®, an exfoliating solution combining the natural, gentleness and performance.

EXFOLACTIVE® reactivates the endogenous mechanisms of desquamation, thereby refining skin grain to visibly attenuate the marks left by acne.

Ophélie Beaujean

Innovation Management Project Leader
With a passion for skin health, I extended knowledge acquired in my pharmaceutical studies by a master’s degree in dermo-cosmetics. Currently at the heart of innovation at SILAB, my job involves elaborating new concepts in cutaneous biology.

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