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Anti-aging’s reset

The notion of aging has long been considered in the context of a purely biological and medical definition, but is no longer limited to a strictly physical state and now includes the principle of self-perception. This new approach proposes a more holistic solution that is progressively tending to blur the boundaries between beauty, health, and well-being. The “anti-aging” cosmetics of tomorrow are becoming those of “pro-”, “healthy” and “well-” aging.

Embracing age

According to the survey company IPSOS, after the age of 50, there are two attitudes adopted towards aging. On the one hand, aging is dreaded, expressed as “I am constantly seeking to appear younger than I am”. On the other hand, aging is well accepted by most women, reflected by “I accept aging and what counts above all for me is to be in top form, in good health and to remain attractive”.

Today, 71% of women 65 years of age or older declare to live very well with their age. Numerous articles have made the connection between aging well and the use of care products that contribute to help assume aging and its new values. Beyond the expectations of women older than 50 in terms of naturality, scientifically proven efficacy and the use of reference molecules, they also seek positive assistance in the aging process, formula transparency and immediate satisfaction. They are attracted by innovations in both modern cosmetic trends and cutting-edge scientific expertise.

PEPTILIUM® is a global anti-aging active ingredient composed of natural biopeptides purified to 95%, obtained from a co-product of a superfruit, the cranberry. Combining high efficacy, transversality and safety, the active ingredient targets the three compartments of the skin: it strengthens the epidermal barrier function and boosts complexion radiance; it improves the quality of the dermal-epidermal junction and of the dermal matrix for an anti-wrinkle action. Compared to retinol, PEPTILIUM® has a more intense and more rapid efficacy while having no side effects.

Influence of beauty rituals

Neuromediators have an effect on the thickness of tissues, on the production of collagen and sebum, on skin pigmentation or on the immune response. Beyond a physiological response, some neuromediators also contribute to affecting positive emotions.

According to Euromonitor, 65% of consumers consider mental well-being to be a key factor in the perception of health. Currently, the contribution that consumers make to care products in terms of physical and mental serenity suggests that tomorrow’s comfort creams will no longer be limited to an action on the skin’s surface but will participate in the stimulation of specific neuromediators that will ensure constant well-being.

A purified active ingredient, rich in oligosaccharides, from the Bulgarian rose, WELLAGYL® meets the concept of aging well expressed by women determined to stay beautiful and still look their age. WELLAGYL® activates the biological pathways specific to aging well at cells level and stimulates the tissue metabolism. On volunteers with poorly-aging skin, it restores four main well-aging criteria: complexion radiance, hydration, relief and firmness. Women's skin becomes healthy, hydrated, and relaxed once more. WELLAGYL® reveals natural beauty of mature skin.

The microbiota of mature skin

The homeostasis of the cutaneous microbiota conditions the immunity, nutrition and defense of skin against aggressions by pathogens. This symbiosis is essential for the skin’s beauty and health. Unfortunately, in certain conditions, this fragile equilibrium may be ruptured and cause an alteration of the microbiota diversity and the appearance of dermatological disorders.

Recent research has shown that an imbalance appears in the course of aging. The use of cosmetics with the ability to re-equilibrate the cutaneous microbiota of mature skin could thus be of benefit for preventing pathological skin disorders at an advanced age.

ECOBIOTYS® is an active ingredient bio-inspired by the regulating capacity of the microbiota of floral nectar, the Nectarobiota®. Obtained from the yeast Metschnikowia reukaufii, isolated from the porcelain flower Hoya carnosa, ECOBIOTYS® specifically rebalances the microbiota of mature skin by reinforcing the immune and mechanical barriers of the skin and acting on the distribution of bacterial communities. The quality of the skin barrier is thereby improved, and the complexion is enhanced. This rebalancing and protective active is intended for use in all care products for mature skin.

Menopau’sitivity

The skin is profoundly affected by the hormonal changes related to menopause and reduced estrogen levels could accentuate signs of skin aging. The skin becomes less supple, finer, more squamous, rough, and dry. More sensitive to external stresses such as temperature variations or UV, signs such as tightening, and itching appear, and the skin requires special and specific care products.

70% of women 40 years of age and older want to see more beauty and personal care products for women at the onset of and during menopause. A subject progressively losing its stigmas, today’s women seek advice and care products enabling them to be better prepared for menopause.

Rich in purified artichoke leaf peptides, MENOFIT® recently targets menopausal skin which requires specific solutions at several levels. As a complete answer, MENOFIT® normalizes keratinocyte growth by restoring EGF receptor expression. It maintains the structure of the dermis by stimulating the synthesis of matrix components and limiting the matrix breakdown. With restored density and hydration, skin recovers comfort and suppleness, and wrinkles are smoothed.

Camille Desperiez

Marketing project leader
As a biologist engineer, I am fascinated by the benefits of Nature on well-being and on the skin. At SILAB, within the marketing and communication department, my creative spirit is expressed in the production of thematic and trend presentations. In an international environment, my job requires to be continuously attentive to the current and future needs of consumers.

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